Not accompany each photo, and/or the statement includes only some of the photo’s meta data (camera make/model, f/stop, exposure time, ISO speed, focal length), and/or an explanation of the relevance of the image to the challenge is not present and/or is written poorly. A written statement accompanies each photo; the statement includes. You dial in some settings – say f/2.8, 1/250 s, and ISO 200 – to get the exposure level indicator at 0 (which means a ‘correct’ exposure based on your metering mode). You capture a photo but feel that you need a greater or deeper depth of field which you know can be obtained by using a smaller or narrow aperture.
- Exposure 7 0 1 96 – Photographic Film Effects Mayo Clinic
- Exposure 7 0 1 96 – Photographic Film Effects Online
OK, so for a while we’ve been wanting to explain a couple of film technicalities that we’re pretty sure will change many people’s understanding of film and exposure.
Alright, take a deep breath ‘cause this stuff is easy but sometimes difficult to explain in written communication.
Alright, take a deep breath ‘cause this stuff is easy but sometimes difficult to explain in written communication.
Exposure 7 0 1 96 – Photographic Film Effects Mayo Clinic
So the thing is that exposure on film (unlike in digital photography) is not equivalent at all to overall brightness of an image. For example, in the digital photography world when someone speaks of an overexposed image you instantly imagine a bright, all-white image with (probably) clipped highlights. In the film world this is not necessarily so.
Color film’s latitude is huge. Like 2-3 stops for underexposure and up to 6 spots for over-exposure (depending on the film stock). Also clipped highlights are literally impossible on film (straight from the scanner).
Add to this awesome characteristics the fact that brightness can be controlled during the scanning process.
Now this “overexposed = bright all-white” and “underexposed = dark black” rules of thumb start to make less sense right?
So then what’s the big deal with all that “overexposed 1 stop” etc film talk you read everywhere on the Internets? Itube studio 7 4 0 56.
Add to this awesome characteristics the fact that brightness can be controlled during the scanning process.
Now this “overexposed = bright all-white” and “underexposed = dark black” rules of thumb start to make less sense right?
So then what’s the big deal with all that “overexposed 1 stop” etc film talk you read everywhere on the Internets? Itube studio 7 4 0 56.
![Exposure 7 0 1 96 – Photographic Film Effects Exposure 7 0 1 96 – Photographic Film Effects](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/M/MV5BMTM4NDI4MjMzNl5BMl5BanBnXkFtZTgwMTY0OTk1MDE@._V1_UX182_CR0,0,182,268_AL_.jpg)
Exposure 7 0 1 96 – Photographic Film Effects Online
OK, so we’ve had so many questions about this and we’ve told so many customers on our Wetransfer feedbacks that we decided to shoot some stuff and show you guys how this thing works.
Here’s a shot of our colleague Héctor we shot on Fuji 400H film and a Contax 645 medium format camera.
We metered with our handheld (incident) light meter below his chin with the bulb out facing the shooter. That shot will be considered our “anchor” or “box speed” example, meaning it was shot at 400 ISO not over or under-exposing.
From there we shot in one stop increments down to 6 steps under (all the way to the left) and up to 6 steps over (all the way to the right… yeah, 1/15 handheld at f2 right there!).
We then scanned these on our Fuji Frontier SP3000 at the same brightness level (important).
Make sure you click on the images to view larger and even the upper right hand icon to for full size ?
Here’s a shot of our colleague Héctor we shot on Fuji 400H film and a Contax 645 medium format camera.
We metered with our handheld (incident) light meter below his chin with the bulb out facing the shooter. That shot will be considered our “anchor” or “box speed” example, meaning it was shot at 400 ISO not over or under-exposing.
From there we shot in one stop increments down to 6 steps under (all the way to the left) and up to 6 steps over (all the way to the right… yeah, 1/15 handheld at f2 right there!).
We then scanned these on our Fuji Frontier SP3000 at the same brightness level (important).
Make sure you click on the images to view larger and even the upper right hand icon to for full size ?
Here’s the full spectrum of the 13 stops of the test
Now zooming in on the Overexposure side
And finally the Underexposure side of the test. (yeah, the -6 was Héctor’s profile pic for a while ? )
Now zooming in on the Overexposure side
And finally the Underexposure side of the test. (yeah, the -6 was Héctor’s profile pic for a while ? )
We did the same thing for these shots of our colleague Gloria , but this time in a totally different light situation and on Kodak Portra 400 film.
What conclusions can be made from this test?
Well… first of all… 6 stops overexposed? And it still looks amazing? That’s pretty sweet.
Overall, there seems to be a higher number of usable shots on the overexposure side than on the underexposure side. So what does this tell us? Film LOVES overexposure. Unlike what happens in digital photography, with overexposure film gets a little more saturated and you get more details on the shadows, but definitely no clipped highlights or “all-white” burnt images. That’s why it’s totally safe to say that if you’re in doubt between two possible camera values for your exposure you’ll always be safer on the “over” side than on the “under” one.
Overall, there seems to be a higher number of usable shots on the overexposure side than on the underexposure side. So what does this tell us? Film LOVES overexposure. Unlike what happens in digital photography, with overexposure film gets a little more saturated and you get more details on the shadows, but definitely no clipped highlights or “all-white” burnt images. That’s why it’s totally safe to say that if you’re in doubt between two possible camera values for your exposure you’ll always be safer on the “over” side than on the “under” one.
It must be noted also that underexposure brings out grain and colors shifts and extreme overexposure will make images flat, contrast-less and with magenta or yellow highlights.
So again, remember that for these tests we scanned all images at equal brightness, so that’s why you get a -6 image full of grainy shadows and a +6 image that’s less bright than you’d expect. So underexposed images can be brightened by “bringing up” grainy shadows (hello VSCO look!) and overexposed images can be “brought down” so they don’t look hyper white-ish.
Also bare in mind that these were scanned and then posted UNEDITED. It goes without saying that with very basic edits the -1 shot can be made to look maybe similar to the correctly exposed one and for example the -3 can be scanned darker and slightly edited to look more “chiaroscuro”-like, but you get the picture, right? (no pun intended;) )
So that’s a lot of info to digest!
Hope this clarifies some doubts that so many of our customers have written to us about and that it helped you somehow to be more confident when you’re shooting and getting you closer to the look you want out of your scans.
Hope this clarifies some doubts that so many of our customers have written to us about and that it helped you somehow to be more confident when you’re shooting and getting you closer to the look you want out of your scans.
Happy shooting!
Carmencita Team Primo iphone data recovery 2 2 1.
Photo by Akio Takemoto. Licensed under CC BY-SA 2.0
Film speed is the major marker between differences in film types. Speed will work along side the aperture and shutter speed of a film camera to determine length of exposure for successful basic photography tips. The speed is determined with a calibration number that can be used to compare different films. This number essentially describes how fast the film can capture an image when exposed to minimal light. This number is commonly referred to as the International Organization for Standardization (ISO). You may also hear this number being called the American Standards Association (ASA). The ISO film speed can range anywhere from 1 to over 32,000. For some beginner photography tips regarding film speed, read on to discover which speed is right for the conditions you plan on photographing in.
Slow Speed Film Photography Tips
Film with an ISO of less than 200 or so will qualify as slow speed film. This requires plenty of light and is normally recommended for clear, sunny days. The grains of light sensitive material in the film are very small and work well for creating large prints from the small negative. This basic photography technique works well for shallow depth of field as a slow shutter speed and open aperture can be effectively used in bright conditions. And with more light needed for exposures, slow speed film appears to have more contrast than other film types.
Fast Speed Film Guide to Photography
Photo film with an ISO around 400 will have a larger grain size in the light sensitive material when compared to slow film. This will, of course, require less light for a proper exposure and may result in visible grain on your photographic prints. Motion blur is minimized and often yields a great depth of field as shutter speeds are faster and the aperture remains somewhat closed. On a typical sunny day, the average shutter speed and f-stop will likely be around mid-point, 1/500 speed at f16. This film will also give good results on a cloudy day.
High Speed Film Photography Guide
High speed film will have an ISO larger than 800. The speed of this film requires minimal light to make an exposure and may be useless in sunny conditions. The bright light of a sunny day will require very fast shutter speeds and apertures that will only result in frozen motion and great depth of field. However, the film is utilized mostly for indoor activities – particularly fast moving activities such as sports. But due to typical low lighting conditions, the contrast will be minimal and the grain will be most evident.
Before anything else, once film is loaded into your 35mm camera, you must set the film speed ring on the top of your camera. Alternatively, if you are using a handheld light meter, you must specify the speed on the meter. After that, you are free to start shooting with basic photography techniques such as night photography and winter photography. Read more about setting your camera for different film speeds in the film settings page.